The first thing that strikes me in Singapore is a lush, greenhouse-worth display of beautiful greenery… in the middle of the baggage carousel. I haven’t even collected my luggage when I’m first aware of the city-state’s extraordinary commitment to the eco cause.
And it’s the gift that keeps on giving, because when I check into my hotel, the Parkroyal Marina Bay Sands, there are rows of greenery everywhere, a 13m tall living wall – which helps to purify the surrounding air – and an urban garden on the fourth floor producing more than 60 varieties of fruit, vegetables and herbs (legislation dictates that any new or renovated building has to commit to similar green practices).
A 21-storey atrium topped by a skylight lowers the hotel’s temperature, helping to reduce its electricity usage, while solar panels on the roof provide off-grid power.
These are notable impressions of a place that, while smaller than the whole of New York City, has been steadfastly gaining a reputation as one of the most eco-friendly places in the world. Just this month, it was officially certified as a sustainable destination based on criteria set by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council.
Back in the 60s, Singapore became known as the Garden City thanks to Lee Kuan Yew, its prime minister at the time, proposing the creation and evolution of a greener environment to soften the effects of its concrete urban jungle. Today you’re more likely to see actual jungle – Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. It’s the highest point on the island at 163m, and one of only two patches of urban rainforest in the world (the other’s in Rio). Over the past few decades, more space and planning has been dedicated to expanding existing parks or creating new ones.
I head to the Southern Ridges Park, which features Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge – the Henderson Waves. At 36m, it offers a great view across the Singapore Strait, while looking inland shows a sea of green, out of which the occasional tower block protrudes. It also leads on to a path that ultimately reaches neighbouring Mount Faber.
‘Most of our parks are linked,’ says my guide, Naseem. ‘The Park Connector Network joins up green areas, so it’s really easy to go for a walk or bike ride in nature while still being in the middle of the city. It’s also aimed at discouraging people from using their cars so much.’
As we walk, I notice locals scanning their phones over QR codes located on signposts, at regular intervals.
‘That’s a great incentive to keep fit,’ says Naseem. ‘This records your daily steps, which you can turn into points that are worth rewards like supermarket vouchers.’
I’d up my step count, too, if it was going to help with my weekly shop – although I am tempted by a more kooky option – a tour of the city in a vintage Vespa sidecar.
With Naseem, I arrive at Singapore’s beautiful Botanic Gardens. Founded in 1859, it’s the only tropical garden to be recognised by Unesco. Its showpiece is the National Orchid Garden, which displays more than 1,000 species. Some are named after prominent visitors such as Queen Elizabeth and the Obamas.
Another, more unusual, green space then beckons – Gardens by the Bay is three waterfront gardens of 250 acres. The biggest is Bay South, notable for the Flower Dome – the world’s biggest glass greenhouse. It contains flowers and plants from climate zones around the planet and I wander happily from clusters of cacti to giant baobab trees, via rose bushes and expanses of pretty meadow flowers.
Next door is the Cloud Forest, which features one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls and is several storeys high. Aerial walkways allow you to observe the exotic plant species within it.
However, one of my favourite parts of this green city isn’t even natural. The Gardens’ man-made Supertrees tower into the sky, 18 strange sculptures ranging between 25m and 50m, each with a solid ‘trunk’ that fans out into a network of ‘branches’.
Budget beds
For a good deal, the Hotel 81 chain has branches across Singapore, offering cleanliness, comfort and value for money. Stay at the one in centrally located Bugis, surrounded by shopping malls, restaurants and nightlife; hotel81.com.sg.
We found deals for a pristine twin room at 134 Singapore dollars per night for two – that’s just £41 each. The starting price is for a room with no window but, hey, there’s linen, wi-fi, a TV and kettle. Bag a room with a view from 159 dollars.
The 22m-tall Skyway connects 12 of them, and it’s a fascinating experience to see them up close and to look down on the real greenery spreading out below.
Despite their artificiality, however, they do, of course, contribute to Singapore’s eco-credentials.
Several harvest solar energy to power the lights that illuminate them after dark, while others incorporate devices for water storage and air cooling. Definitely one of the coolest things about Singapore.
The option to take one flight, then stay for a month on a workation would appeal to anyone who wants to fly as little as possible.
And as I watch the music and light show that takes place on the trees every evening, it’s clear that Singapore really does signal green light for go.
Return fares from London Heathrow to Singapore from £578, finnair.com. Rooms at Parkroyal Marina Bay Sands from £258pn, panpacific.com.
For more info, see visitsingapore.com
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